Find the original at https://xkcd.com/2634
The City Skyliner attraction came to Luxembourg in late June. It’s on the Place de la Constitution, near the Gëlle Fra.
We rode it on August 6th and took a bunch of photos. Its stay was extended to August 20th, so maybe we’ll make it one more time!
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We began at the train station, where there were a few chalets and something quite unusual in France…
A Nativity scene! A manger! A crèche — in a public space in France? Surely not?!
This time of year, France’s extraordinary commitment to laïcité becomes obvious in contrast with its neighbors. Most of Germany and Luxembourg celebrate Christian holidays through public and even government-sponsored events and displays. France observes a principle called laïcité that enforces a strictly secular character to its political affairs through both formal and informal prohibitions. In some ways, it goes well beyond the idea of “separation of church and state” that is well-known to Americans.
One fundamental formal commitment to laïcité is a law of 1905. But Metz, part of the Alsace-Moselle region, had been annexed by Germany in 1871 and wasn’t part of France when the law was put into effect.
During World War I, French generals promised the residents of Alsace-Moselle that the old agreements, which recognized and supported four main religions, would remain in effect under French government. When Alsace and Lorraine rejoined France in 1919, judicial authorities ruled that the law of 1905 did not apply to the recovered regions. The subject has been under occasional contention for more than 100 years.
In the meantime, the exception has become a matter of local practice and even pride. Hence the remarkable Nativity scene in front of the central train station of Metz.
We made our way from there to the first of the real markets, on Place Saint Louis. Many of Place Saint Louis’s buildings still have medieval façades, but they are obscured by a double-decker carousel on one end, a Christmas pyramid on the other, and chalets in between.
Anita had to ride on the upper deck of the carousel, of course!
The chalets of this market had the widest variety of food and goods that we’ve seen outside of Strasbourg and Cologne. They included some regional specialities that you won’t find in German markets, too.
Have you ever eaten fresh snails or frogs’ legs from a street vendor before?
We were thrilled to re-discover a type of French candy that we’d happened across in Strasbourg, three years ago. What’s more, we now know where we can find it again — and we can visit on our next trip to Alsace wine country!
The next market was in Place Saint-Jacques. We have no idea what motivated the onion-domed theme for the chalets.
We do, however, know a lot about the unusual statue looking over the square. It is emblematic of the unique history of Alsace and yet another exception to laïcité.
In 1918, the Catholics of Metz feared that their city would be destroyed, as was the case for neighboring Verdun. They asked their bishop to pledge to build a statue to Mary so that the city would be spared. The statue was erected in 1924.
In 1940, the German occupying army prohibited any kind of assembly. Yet on August 15, a crowd gathered to pray at the foot of the statue for the feast of the Assumption of Mary. The feast is now celebrated by a procession to the statue on August 15 of every year.
The third market was on the huge and wind-swept square of Place de la République. The main attractions there were an ice-sculpture exhibition and a skating rink. We were getting hungry and had little interest in those things.
It was almost time to eat but we had one more market to visit first: Place d’Armes, with its massive Ferris wheel next to the magnificent Cathedral of Saint-Étienne de Metz.
We have to admit that, with cold hands and empty stomachs, we decided to take a ride next year and visit the cathedral some other time. Fortunately, we were very close to the famous Covered Market of Metz.
The U-shaped building was begun as a grand palace for the bishop (excuse me, “Prince-Cardinal”) of Metz… just before the French Revolution started. The bishop skipped town and his successors over the years had better sense than to finish the structure. The residents of Metz decided that it was better used as an indoor market about 30 years later.
There are the usual purveyors of cheese, meat, seafood, and exotic foods — as well as a few small restaurants. We chose the one specializing in soup and we joined two local couples at a large table. The soup was hot and delicious and the table wine tasted just right. (The vin chaud of Metz has more spices than the Glühwein of Luxembourg and didn’t suit Anita’s tastes.)
As we made our way back through the markets to the train station, we noticed that the crowds were getting bigger as the sun set.
To remember for next time: come later and start with the Ferris wheel!
]]>The first week of September was quiet, which I appreciated after the hectic summer. My plan to relax and get caught up on some housework the first weekend were thwarted by a most-excellent interruption – the repaving of our street! After over a year of heavy construction the project was completed and it was time for fresh and smooth pavement. I spent hours on the front balcony, watching the pavement “chewers” and then the asphalt-laying on the second day. I had so much fun watching everything from our 4th floor balcony. It was like the best box seat at the big event.
Hours of enjoyment for all! There were big chewers and little chewers and workers all over!
Paving day was the best! I had to wake Will up early so we didn’t miss any of the action!
We did stop paying attention to the street on Saturday night so we could celebrate the birthday of a good friend at a winery in Germany. I only bought 6 bottles of wine, demonstrating my ability to control my wine-buying habit.
The second weekend was commitment-free. It gave us a chance to rest and do a bit of mountain biking to prepare for a randonnée on 20 September with our friend D. D is an avid biker and in superior fitness, so we were not sure how the day would go. Sunday dawned cool and a bit foggy but Will and I were prepared with our comfortable kit and the our adventurous spirit.
First, the course was tough. D did a great job of guiding us as best as he could but some of the climbs were just too much for me physically. Second, Will was struggling with his tummy and he did not feel strong. While the course was beautiful and we were happy to be out, overall it seemed like the day was a bit ambitious for both of us. Thankfully, D did not mind at all and was very supportive of our efforts. After we finished the short-course, we went back to D’s house for lunch with his wife and a relaxing afternoon on the terrace.
The fourth week in September I had a quick day trip to Brussels. Will was kind enough to tag along and keep me company, plus help with the driving. While I am always happy to see my colleagues, the one-day trips make for a tiring week.
The next weekend we were able to relax, plus attempt another mountain biking randonnée. This time we selected the “family” course, which was advertised as ideal for beginners and children.
Boy-howdy! What the organizers consider ideal for beginners and what I consider a beginner course are two very different things. The course had a few killer hills, a few very technical sections, and stairs. Yes, I said stairs. There was a section where you were expected to ride down some stairs. Needless to say, I walked my bike down that section. Thankfully, overall the course was difficult but not impossible. At the end, I felt like I was challenged and that I had improved my skills a bit. All in all, it was a great way to spend a Sunday.
And then September was in the books and I looked towards October. The first weekend in October was full of fun. Friday night we went to a happy-hour in the city hosted by the women’s club. Not only did we see a lot of friends, but I was also able to have a last-minute girls dinner with Dexter’s owner at one of my favorite restaurants. A so-so evening turned into a real treat!
Saturday we visited the new Rotonde facility for the “Lët’z go local” market. We did a bit of Christmas shopping but mostly we enjoyed seeing the rehabilitated area.
In the afternoon we took a historical tour of the U.S. Embassy followed by dinner with friends. Sunday continued the fun with Will helping a friend with some household moving and both of us going to a play in the evening.
The second week of October I had a two-day trip to Paris for work. Due to the meeting and train schedules, I was able to enjoy a few hours wandering around Paris, which made me so happy. The weather was beautiful and I was able to coordinate a meal at Chipotle. I cannot lie — I try to eat at Chipotle each time I am in Paris. So far I am batting a thousand and I cannot see a reason to stop!
The American Women’s Club of Luxembourg (AWCL) hosted a “Trunk-or-Treat!” for the kids to celebrate Halloween. Luxembourg does not celebrate Halloween, so this was a way for the kids to get a bit of America while living here. Will and I volunteered to be a trunk, passing out candy and admiring the costumes.
Our trunk was not the most fancy but we did our best to capture the spirit of the season. My bats are saved for the event next year and I may even try to come up with a few other ideas.
I also squeezed in a short work trip to England. While the travel was long and boring, it did allow me to stock up on my favorite gummy candies for me and some friends in the U.S.
The rest of October was spent preparing for our November trip to the U.S. We had shopping to do, gifts to organize, and lists to prepare. We managed a few days relaxation but overall we were focused on all that needed to be done before 10 November…. the day we flew to Chicago!
For your enjoyment, some random photos from the phone. My apologies for the large size of the photos. I decided the work to resize them would mean this post would be delayed even longer.
One Friday night in September I talked Will into dinner at one of our favorite local places, Café Cents. It was one of the last nice nights for dining outside and we took complete advantage of the excellent weather… and the excellent local beer and wine.
Finally, after two years, we gave up and just started decorating with bicycles. All in all, our foyer is tidier and they do make for a great conversation piece when guests arrive.
In an attempt to increase my steps each day, I tried walking at lunch time. The clouds were frightening, but beautiful.
My favorite flower vendor has some amazing roses this fall. I just fell completely in love with this batch.
Tired of constantly getting up to refill my glass, I finally got a “right-sized” one. I kid! This is a decanter that my favorite winery gave me as a gift when we visited in June.
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The market furthest from the center (and closest to where we parked) was the Village of St. Nicholas on the aptly-named Rudolfplatz.
As usual, you can click on any of these photos to see the full-size version in all its glory.
Just a short distance away, the Angel’s Market offered Cologne’s version of the Gromperekichelcher. This potato pancake seemed to be covered in a tempura-like batter. The potatoes inside were looser and less savory than the Luxembourgish version. It was tasty enough, but nowhere near as good as our beloved Gromperekichelcher.
The Christmas Market at the Dom (cathedral) was the main event. We got a little lost on the way there, but on a warm and sunny day, that was no hardship.
Anita had never visited the Dom, so we wandered around the inside. The stained glass was beautifully lit by the low winter sun, and the mosaics in the ambulatory were especially impressive.
The market chalets facing the cathedral were painted with long murals depicting Nativity scenes. The attention to detail throughout Cologne’s markets was impressive.
Of the cities with Christmas Markets that we’ve visited, Strasbourg is the only one in the same league as Cologne. To compare them directly, Strasbourg’s advantages were breath-taking scenes and the magic that came from the entire city being decorated. Cologne’s strong points were the shops themselves and the exquisite details in every corner of the markets.
While the Dom’s market was a single square dominated by a huge tree and the Dom itself, the Old Market was strung in a long line weaving down streets and among small squares.
The theme of the Old Market was gnomes. The little guys were everywhere!
The tourist train was bedecked for Christmas. We did a lot of walking across the sprawling downtown, so I can see how the train would be welcome for those with limited mobility, or those who made a lot of purchases.
The Harbor Market sat on the Rhine. It was small and less thoroughly decorated than the other markets, but it offered its own specialties, including delicious popcorn (which is a true rarity around here).
The sun had set completely by the time we got back to the Old Market.
Why retrace our steps? Partly to enjoy the elaborate lights of the Old Market and the Dom Market. But mostly to make sure that Anita brought home her precious Christmas houses.
Shopping bags in hand, we returned to the Dom Market, knowing that the lights on the giant tree would be spectacular.
Sitting on a fountain just outside the bustling market, we had one last Christmas-market delicacy, some fancy Käsespätzle. Then we joined the crowds on the subway, returned to our car just as it started to rain, and drove home tired but content.
]]>We kicked off July with a Fourth of July event co-hosted between the American Womenâ€s Club of Luxembourg (AWCL) and Democrats Abroad. Since the Fourth fell on a Saturday, the groups arranged a picnic at a lovely spot in Luxembourg. In the weeks before the event, there was much concern about the amount of indoor and/or covered space available at the location because Luxembourg tends to be quite rainy. However summer 2015 proved to be the second hottest on record and July 4th was the hottest day in July…. ever. (Well, at least since they started keeping records.) It was a high of 39°C, which is around 102°F. Add that to the fact that almost no homes have air-conditioning and you get a bunch of hot, tired people. Even under those conditions, the groups had a great day and the picnic was enjoyed by many. I will admit I was happy to have Sunday as a “rest day†to recover from the hot and busy Fourth.
The second weekend in July was just want we wanted this summer –- lots of time on the bike. Saturday, we went north-east to the cobbles of Bourglinster.
This is outside Bourglinster. You can’t stop for pictures on the cobbles!
Sunday we went west towards the Belgian border. It was a new area for us to cycling and we came across something fascinating to both of us – the water works for the west of the country!
My family has worked with the water department in my hometown for three generations (if you count my meter-reading as a child). Will and I are enthralled with how Luxembourg stores the water in the hills, then pulls it out when necessary. It is so radically different than anything done in the part of the US where we lived that we just can’t get enough of it. We plan to go on tour of the facilities as soon as we can arrange it! We also happened to see some sort of Ferrari car club event – more amazing cars than we could count rolled down the road while we were admiring the water facility. You just never know what you will see when you are out and about in Luxembourg.
We also cycled through a town with a castle that day, so in honor of Rachel we stopped for a castle-selfie.
I am sure we did something else enjoyable that weekend, but I only remember the cycling!
In mid-July, we headed over to a friendâ€s home in Germany to visit and relax. It was fun to get together and play cards, eat too much, and drink just the right amount! Our friend lives in a lovely part of Germany, so we enjoyed getting out and taking a few strolls around the countryside. Plus, he taught us the addictive card game Phase 10. Now I am on the search for a deck of my own……
The river had a nifty man-made “waterfall” area. Our host has an excellent patio just made for relaxing.
We learned in late June that even more friends would be moving back to America. Not only was another set of friends moving on to a new adventure, we were losing another one of our dogs! First we lost Chester, then Willow, and now Hana would also be leaving Luxembourg. Even though our friends were busy preparing for the move, they asked us to join them for a dinner at Lea Linsterâ€s. Will and I had heard many good things about the restaurant and its famous chef, so we jumped at the chance. There is nothing quite like a relaxing multi-course meal with friends, especially when the food is tremendously tasty. We were so pleased to have had the opportunity to share such a spectacular experience with good friends.
One great part of being a member of the AWCL is that they organize the occasional Friday night happy hours. In late July, one was scheduled at the Abbey Neumunster, a lovely place to listen to live music and enjoy catching up with friends. Will was busy so I went directly after work. It was nice to see some old friends, meet some new ones, and then have the heat break with a huge rainstorm. Most of the crowd was drenched, but it was such a relief from the heat that no one really cared.
The last Sunday in July found us out on the bikes, this time heading to the south of the country. We tried a new route when terminated in a forest. Since we were on our road bikes this was a bit of an issue. Thankfully, we both made it out without punctures, so in the end it wasnâ€t a tragedy. Still, we were a bit nervous for a few minutes….
This is not the surface you want when you are out on the road bike. Cycle paths are supposed to be paved, Luxembourg!
Hana was moving to America but we didnâ€t want her to leave without staying at the BBB&B Kennel one last time. We happily offered to watch her when her owners went to the US on a home-finding trip. It has been great fun to see her go from an exuberant puppy to a well-behaved dog over the last five years. It was hard to say goodbye to our friends, but we know weâ€ll see them again both in person and electronically. I am thankful for the many forms of connectivity in 2015… including the Fitbit that shows me how much my friends are walking too.
Hana’s color makes for a photography challenge, but I just keep trying. We miss her leans and her love. The neighborhood cat does not miss Hana.
Normally, I try to avoid a lot of work talk in my posts. This time, I did want to note for “future Anita” that the last two weeks of July 2015 were absolutely hell at work. At the end of the month, however, we had 2012 audits finished and that nearly made it worthwhile.
The heat continued into August. The first Saturday in August I talked Will into a simple afternoon of riding to explore Luxembourg. I am now the proud owner of a proper mountain bike (thanks Rachel!) rather than the hand-me-down I was riding from Will. Due to all the other activity since May, I hadnâ€t had a lot of time in the saddle. I thought it would be fun to spend time on the mountain bike but spend it exploring the city. Plus, we wanted to send a video to our nephew, who left his training wheels behind this summer. We had a blast exploring some neighborhoods and making a short video.
On Sunday we celebrated President Obamaâ€s birthday with a delicious brunch… and a nap in the hammock. Really, itâ€s the only way to survive a too-hot summer.
The next two weekends were spent either cycling or recovering from cycling. One Saturday we did the out-and-back to the north. Another Saturday found us out on the mountain bikes again, this time with our friend Roger. That afternoon ride ended with a relaxing afternoon and barbeque, which is always a treat. On any given weekend day, we did our best to take advantage of the amazing weather by cycling.
The views from our ride with Roger was amazing. Before Rachel moved, we cycled here frequently. We need to get back out there more in 2016.
As mentioned in another post, I had a significant birthday this year. Will also had a significant birthday in August. In order to celebrate these momentous occasions, Giny and Roger suggested a weekend away in the Eifel in Germany. They have a lovely spot they like to visit and we joined them for three fun and beautiful days. We could swim, hike, and relax. In fact, I managed to relax so completely that I even took a nap! The weekend allowed us to recharge, plus play more Phase 10. I just know Iâ€ll manage to win one of these times.
The spot was so relaxing and beautiful. We even enjoyed a barbecue one night!
We closed out August with a last-minute work trip to the Netherlands. We departed early on Monday morning, spending most of the week in Zwolle. Will was able to get out on his bike and explore a bit, while I was in meetings. Itâ€s always nice to be in Netherlands -– and not just for the stroopwafel McFlurries! We were back in Luxembourg by the end of the week to close out August with some of our favorite things –- a happy hour at the Maine House and then two days of cycling. Thanks to the beautiful weather, I was able to ride nearly 350km during July and August. While thatâ€s nothing to a professional, Iâ€m proud that Will and I did get out on our bikes every possible weekend. Now, if only that would translate to weight loss… eh, weâ€ll save that for another time.
]]>First up was the Tour of Luxembourg, which is the annual five day cycling event held around Luxembourg. I took two days off so we could make enjoy as much of the racing as possible. On Friday, we decided to ride our bicycles to the race, which was something we havenâ€t done in the past. Not only that, but we attempted to ride up the big climb of the day, thinking that the road would be closed to cars in advance of the race. No such luck… we had to fight the cars all the way up the hill. Will “fell off the back†about half-way up, but I continued to push. Finally, I could take no more and pulled off the side, not realizing I was a mere 100-200 meters from the top. The hill thwarted me. I just know if my best coach Rachel had been with me I could have done it. Both Will and I vow to try again in the near future. It was somewhat consoling to see professionals and semi-pros also struggle up the same hill later. Of course, they had been riding for over a hundred KM at that point… so really, my struggle and theirs are not the same at all!
Notice the 14% grade? Yeah, it was a big, tough hill.
In mid-June we took a vacation to Bordeaux and San Sebastian. We drove and took our bikes with us, because we knew San Sebastian was a great place to relax and to cycle. But first, we wanted to go to Bordeaux and visit some of the wineries we enjoy buying from each February at my favorite wine event. I booked two nights at a winery we enjoy and then planned to see two others. We arrived after a long day of driving and relaxed in the gardens outside the chateau. Our hosts suggested a local restaurant for dinner, which was fabulous. The place combined dining and shopping for wine. Instead of a wine list, you roamed around the facility to find the bottle you wanted to try. Then, if you liked your choice it was easy to purchase more on the way out. Perfection!
I fell in love with the silly decanter. The vineyard grounds were lovely and relaxing, plus they had a very friendly cat.
The next day we headed into Saint-Emilion, a well-known town in Bordeaux that is famous for wine. In addition, it also has an amazing monolithic church which is open for tours. We wandered around the town, drank many glasses of wine, and enjoyed the great views.
We were excited to try a recommended place for dinner, but there were no tables available. So we tried another recommended place. Again, nothing was available. After the third strike, I suggested to Will that we return to the restaurant from the night before. The food was excellent, plus it was close to our lodging. Will agreed with my plan, which meant another night of tasty dinner!
The next morning we departed for Spain. Before we left Bordeaux, I wanted to make a stop at the winery that is my favorite, Chateau de Bonhoste. When we arrived, the place looked closed. Will asked kindly if I had confirmed the opening hours. Fearing a failure, we approached the tasting room to see a buzzer and the hours – the tasting room was open! Before we could buzz, the friendliest but dirtiest vineyard dog appeared out of nowhere. She was so happy to see people and very happy to have some pets.
Eventually Madame Colette arrived to offer us some tastings, although we assured her we were very familiar with her wine. I was at a bit of a loss, as she only spoke French, but she and Will got along like peas and carrots. Before we knew it, we were taking a case of this and two cases of that, and why not a case of this over here? Buying wine is turning into another hobby for both of us.
Next, we needed lunch before departing Bordeaux. Could Madame Colette recommend a restaurant? Of course she would be happy to! While this one and that one were closed, perhaps this place would suit? She ensured it would have excellent food….and since we were going there, would we mind doing her a favor? Apparently, she needed to do a bulk wine delivery to the establishment and it was going to be a bit difficult, with her family away at another wine event and her granddaughter under her care. No worries! we said, and proceeded to add her wine to our own purchases. The car was quite full when we were finished. Madame Colette was generous with some “cadeaux†(gifts) for our trouble. In addition, the restaurant was wonderful and we had a fabulous meal.
Driving down to San Sebastian on Sunday, we had lovely weather. That would be the last time we had perfect weather until the morning we left San Sebastian. To be fair, we did have one day of sun that allowed us a couple hours on the beach. But for most of the week, it was cold, it was rainy, and it was not the holiday I had anticipated. Still, we brought out bikes – so we were going to ride! Will planned an introductory route into the hills for Monday, which was beautiful. It rained on us.
Will found us a beautiful place to cycle. If only it had been sunny! We had to deploy the fan to dry out our cycling kit.
Will organized a shorter, hilly climb with the most frightening descent I have ever encountered on Tuesday. It rained on us.
The downhill would have been scary on a dry day but on a wet day it was nerve-wracking.
Wednesday, the skies were grey but the forecast said it would not rain. We decided to do a longer ride with more challenges, but the ride was still intended to be reasonable. The ride was not reasonable. The hills were steep and long, there were 2,000 of them, and it nearly killed us both.
The hills… the hills just kept coming…..
Plus Will got a flat, which just added insult to injury.
When we woke up on Thursday to a forecast of mostly sun, I declared that we were taking a day off from the bike and that we were going to see a bit more of San Sebastian in the sun. We did a walking tour of the big hill and then later spent a couple hours on the beach.
Finally, some time at the beach!.
It looked like our weather was getting better and both of us were excited about one more day of cycling on Friday. Of course, that meant we woke up to cold and rain Friday morning. We decided to relax in the apartment and take care of various computer chores, which actually made the day okay.
While the weather in San Sebastian was terrible, the food was fabulous. We ate pintxos (the local name for tapas) almost every night, except the night when we had a lovely three course meal with wine for a rock-bottom price.
Walking around the old city was a pleasure and we would happily go back to San Sebastian again. Although Iâ€m not sure I would want to take the bikes again….
We returned to Luxembourg just in time to celebrate National Day. As you know from past posts the best part of the celebration is the night before. Unfortunately, the cold and rainy weather followed us from Spain and the evening was miserable. I was bound and determined to experience some of the festivities, knowing that time living in Luxembourg can be fleeting. Will and I walked around for a bit, getting more and more wet, until I decided that we should just park ourselves on the parade route, stand under the umbrella, and wait on the small children with torches.
After a bit, the police starting behaving unusually right in front of us. Then, clear umbrellas were handed to two young officers. I said to Will “I bet we are going to see some royalty.†Sure enough, a giant Audi pulled up and stopped directly in front of us. Before I knew what was happening, the Grand Duchess Marie Teresa stepped out of the back seat. She looked at me directly and said “bon soiree.†I replied in kind, giddy to be so close to the royal family. Oh heck, words canâ€t describe it. To the video!
After our run-in with royalty and watching most of the parade, we decided that we needed to warm up before the 11:00 fireworks. Normal people would go to a pub or a restaurant… but we chose to go back to my office, relax in the quiet, and have hot chocolate. Happily the rain stopped just before it was time to go out and see the fireworks. Will found us a perfect vantage point to view the always-amazing display.
In late June, we had the opportunity to enjoy a small concert at the US Embassy. Both Will and I enjoyed the music and it was nice to visit with some newer friends during the reception afterward.
We finished out the month of June cycling around Luxembourg and turning an eye toward the upcoming 4th of July celebration. Until then!
The events of May/June actually started a few days before, in late April. Will departed for a three week trip to the US, with a side-trip to the Dominican Republic for meetings. While normally I might be a bit lonely while he is away, this was no normal May. The first weekend in May was a birthday of some significance for me. Knowing that I would be celebrating without Will, I organized a couple of events with my girlfriends. May 1st is a public holiday in most of Europe and since it fell on a Friday, I had a long weekend. With some help from The Expatresse, who is now Queen of the Bees, I selected a 10km hike in the eastern part of Luxembourg. Giny, Rachel, and Willow joined us for a strenuous but beautiful hike.
A wonderful hike with great ladies
Needless to say, the rest of the day was spent relaxing on the sofa, catching up with Very Important television.
Saturday meant the normal market run followed by a fabulous bike ride with Rachel. We took the route that had us ride along with Mosel River for a long section and it was beautiful to look up at the vines, with their early leaves. It was a lovely afternoon and some excellent cycling. I finished the day by having dinner with five wonderful ladies, all of whom have come to mean a lot to me in Luxembourg. It was a great way to celebrate my birthday!
The second weekend in May was spent cleaning and cycling, which is just about my perfect weekend. The cleaning was a tremendous project –- Will is still grateful he missed the experience. The cycling was also great fun, as I did a longer route with one of my favorite cycling buddies. I gave up after 62km and took the train home, but I am proud to say my partner continued on and did the full 86km. Really, cycling in Luxembourg cannot be beat.
When Willâ€s trip was planned in early 2015, I thought that I would use the time he was gone to do some organizing and culling of some of my “stuff†that has gathered in the apartment. But before he left, we found out that the timing of Rachel & Companyâ€s move back to the US would overlap with his trip. I knew I wanted to spend as much time as I could with Rachel, Jordan, Henry, and Willow before they left. Happily, I was given a chance to spend more time with them than I initially hoped, because of the timing of their movers and their flight.
Rachel wrote about many of the events on her own blog, so she saved me the work of telling you all about it. It was a great privilege to be with her family during their last days living in Luxembourg. Thankfully, we should be able to see them when we are back in the US for our visits, so saying goodbye was a bit easier than it might have been. Plus, one family member I didnâ€t have to say goodbye to at that moment was Willow. Because of family commitments, Willow was going to fly home a week later than everyone else.
The morning of the final flight home, Willow and I said goodbye to the crew as they scrambled for the airport. There is a lot of luggage when you move two adults and a toddler! About two hours after Rachel, Jordan, and Henry departed, it was time for Willow and I to go the airport and pick up Will. While Willow surely missed her owners, she was very happy to see Will! After the stress of the move, she enjoyed a few days of jet-lagged Will, since both of them were content to relax and recover from their busy May.
On Memorial Day Saturday, Will and I attended the annual Memorial Day service at the American Military Cemetery. As always, the service was moving and emotional. It is a privilege each year to be able to honor those who gave all.
Sunday, we met our friends and Dexter for a hike in the woods. Willow and Dexter are old friends and we wanted them to have one last walk together. Of course, I know that the dogs didnâ€t realize it was their last walk together, but the humans did! It was a warm day in Luxembourg, so we took it slow for Dexter, who is in his twilight years.
What sweeties! We had a great “last hike” for Willow in Lux.
Monday happened to be a public holiday in Lux along with the Memorial Day holiday in the US. Since Willow was flying out the next morning, with a check-in time of 6 a.m., Will, Willow, and I headed for Brussels the afternoon before with the thought of doing some sight-seeing. Because clearly, Willow needed one more jaunt around Europe before returning to her existence in the Midwest. We decided to go to Waterloo, because…. why not? It was close to our final destination (a hotel by the airport) and it is also the 200th anniversary of the battle.
While Waterloo was fine, the real treat was an unplanned stop at Abbaye de Villers. The Abbey is an ancient Cistercian abbey located in the town of Villers-la-Ville. It was founded in 1146 and was abandoned in 1796. The site is mostly ruins, but it is truly fabulous. Even more fabulous… Willow was allowed in! We had a lovely walk around the ruins and enjoyed learning more about the monks who lived there.
After a big day, all three of us were exhausted. We headed to bed as soon as we checked into our hotel. Normally, Willow is not permitted up in bed with us, but for her last night I made an exception. I swear, you could see the smile on her face when she realized she was invited up. It was a sweet way to spend our last night with her.
The next morning, she was off on her big day of travel. I will admit it was hard to see the road through my tears. Sending Willow off was the unavoidable sign that our friends were gone on their next adventure. We wish them all the best, but we miss them terribly. Thank goodness for modern communication – while they feel far away, we still get to see what is up in their lives!
And then, May was over. Since this post is so long, I decided to break Random Happenings 9 into two parts. June will continue in Part 2.
]]>In movies and on television, occasionally they will use a clock that starts spinning faster and faster to illustrate time flying or life getting out of control. At this moment, I feel like our clocks are spinning faster and faster. Both Will and I are grabbing precious time with our friends as best as we can, but we cannot stop the clock. Itâ€s moving season in Luxembourg. Moving season is the hardest season of them all!
March and April were two months where the clock spun faster than ever. While work slowed down a bit for me, it was as busy as ever for Will. Thankfully, he was able to free up time to do lots of fun things during our time together on the weekends. Never let it be said we arenâ€t good at balance!
March started not with a bang, but with a bark. Dexter the dog arrived to stay with us for a week. Dexter last stayed with us in June 2014 when he got to tag along with us while we watched the Tour of Luxembourg. This time we didnâ€t have any fun activities planned so he mostly hung out with us at home. Dexter loves to walk in the park and he would be terribly disappointed if we went out too late, as the park closes early in the winter. He never seems to comprehend why we didn’t just open the gate and go have fun! During his visit, Will did an overnight trip to Germany. Dexter and I invited Rachel, Henry, and Willow in for some fun in the city. Willow and Dexter are great friends and it was a pleasure to walk in for the market as a big group. Unfortunately, between two dogs, a stroller, and groceries, we did not get any good photos of the excursion.
Dexter is a sweetie! He loves visiting our park
The second weekend in March we joined Rachel and Henry on a trip to the Black Forest for a few days. Happily, Jordan was able to join us at the end of the second day. Even better, Rachel has already blogged about the whole trip! Iâ€ll add that Henry was a joy to be around and we were more than happy to help out with him during the mini-vacation. We also bought a cuckoo clock and have it hanging in our dining room. Will is not certain he likes the sound of the ticking clock, but I find it quite soothing.
The construction in front of our apartment continued. March saw the sidewalk completely torn up. April saw it put back in. I will do a small dance of joy in 2020 when this construction project is finally done….
Earlier in the year, I had a chance to buy the board game Ticket to Ride at a cheap price. Will and I heard excellent things about the game and we were excited to play. Thankfully, our friends N and J liked the game too. We were able to squeeze a game night in during March, when we played into the wee hours. We kept Will up a bit too late, because he was running on little sleep from poker the night before. It was a game weekend all the way around.
Even though we are all competitive, game night is tons of fun!
Two years ago, Will and Rachel went to the RVV (Ronde Van Vlaanderen) and had a fabulous time. When Rachel mentioned that she was going to go this year, I told Will that we were going too. I had enjoyed hearing the stories and wanted to have the experience for myself. I probably should do a whole separate post on the 2015 RVV, so Iâ€ll just share a few photos for now.
Henry was the life of the party! We saw the women go by once and the men three times. Will has the photos of the action, my photos are of the fun in between!
In Random Happens 2 I told you about the painful experiences I have with my allergy to birch pollen. Today, I am pleased to report that the plan I outlined in 2014 worked perfectly in 2015. As soon as the birch pollen went insane, I immediately went to the doctor for my shot. I had one evening of itchy eyes and then I was cured. I cannot express the love I have for my shot. It really is a miracle.
And finally…. in mid-April we said a fond farewell to J and N. Their time in Luxembourg came to an end and they moved onto the next new thing. We already miss them, but thanks to the magic of modern life we are able to keep in touch with reasonable ease. We did manage one last weekend of fun as they were on their way out, by traveling with them to Paris to see them off. Paris did not disappoint – and neither did our company. We had a fabulous weekend seeing the city.
The weather was amazing! Also, N found a hotel with a spectacular view. AND I got to have Chipotle! It was really a bit of a dream weekend.
And now… some random photos from the phone!
It may not look like progress, but getting to this point is an achievement!
Personally, I find the Lindt bunny display to be a bit intimidating.
Sometimes in Luxembourg, the only way to get your cycling completed is on the trainer. Thankfully, I can often “ride along” with the professionals.
The flowers on my walk to work were especially spectacular this year.
The cherry blossoms never disappoint.
And finally…. Miss Hana came to hang out with Will during the day. She has grown up so much since she first stayed with us. Both in size and maturity!
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Not so today! In every town we passed in Luxembourg, there were people walking purposefully to and from the center, where a voting facility was usually housed in the town hall or a school. In many towns, there was a sausage-and-crémant stand nearby with a crowd of adults and kids sitting in the sun and chatting.
Luxembourg is serious about voter turnout. Voting is mandatory, with a fine for citizens who fail to vote or obtain a waiver for a good excuse. (The fine is seldom collected, but still.) Voting day is almost always on a Sunday, when most shops are closed and few people work.
Although I’m eager to know the results of the referendum, they are really beside the point of these blog posts. I’m most interested in the debate — the justifications and arguments offered by the political parties and cited by the voters. So no matter what happens today, I’ll write a few more posts on that theme.
]]>For political debate, the United States has its soundbites and those thirty-second commercials ending with, “I’m Joe and I approve this message.” Luxembourg’s most visible political forum consists of tidy rows of posters from the major political parties. Every time an election approaches, these temporary structures appear all over the cities and in many towns, with each party assigned a numbered space.
For national and local elections, these posters often feature the faces of candidates. For the upcoming referendum, the message on most posters is a simple recommendation. There are three issues put to the Luxembourgish population of eligible voters. I’m simplifying a bit, but the basic questions are:
The LSAP is the democratic-socialist party of Luxembourg. In European politics, this is a mainstream position — not anti-capitalism, but in favor of balancing the power of capital with collective bargaining, as well as government regulation and welfare programs. The LSAP says “More democracy for Luxembourg, 3 times Yes.” The central symbol is patriotic, echoing the three colors of the Luxembourgish flag. The words in those three colors aren’t about the referendum. They are three principles of the LSAP: co-determination for workers, integration, and progress.
Please keep in mind that I am neither an expert on Luxembourgish politics nor a competent reader of Luxembourgish! I’m puzzling my way through this out of curiosity and I very much welcome any help.
The Democratic Party (usually called “The DP”) is the party of the current Prime Minister. It is the liberal party of Luxembourg. As is often the case with political words, “liberal” doesn’t mean “left-leaning” in Europe; the DP would be called center-right by most Europeans. A liberal party like the DP promotes free markets and civil rights. In the US, we might say that a typical DP candidate is “fiscally conservative and socially liberal.”
The slogans at the bottom of the poster read, “Yes to youth. Yes to diversity. Yes to more democracy.” It’s no coincidence that the LSAP and DP both use the words “more democracy” — these two parties form the ruling coalition in the national parliament along with the Greens, and they decided to hold this referendum.
The Christian People’s Party (CSV) would also be described as center-right, but in a very different way from the DP. The CSV is socially conservative and less committed to free-markets than the DP. In American terms, one might say “socially conservative and economically populist” — although the latter phrase doesn’t really capture the commonly held European idea that an extensive welfare state is good for conservative values. The CSV was part of the ruling coalition in Luxembourg from 1979 until 2013, and it is still the largest party.
Everyone knows that the CSV is against all three referendum proposals, but their poster strikes a subtle position. “Warning!” it begins, “A mark [on the ballot] is quick to make.” The three small notes just describe the three questions at stake. The warning and the bottom slogan fit with the CSV’s position that the referendum questions appear to be very attractive ideas but do not withstand thoughtful scrutiny: “Get good information on the referendum.”
This poster makes me painfully aware of just how little I’ve learned about Luxembourgish politics (and the language). I’m certain that my description is ham-handed and misses lots of little ways that the phrases here fit into speeches given by CSV leaders and even earlier political debates.
The Alternative Democratic Reform Party (ADR) is the closest thing that Luxembourg has to a far-right party, and the subject of strong opinions all over the country. Some Luxembourgers would dispute that the ADR has anything in common with infamous parties like France’s Front National. Other Luxembourgers are embarrassed by its existence and some of the more extreme (and blunt) statements of its candidates.
The ADR’s position on the referendum is clear on its poster: “No No No” and proudly so. Why such a vigorous rejection, especially compared to the CSV? That gets more complicated and contentious, so I’ll leave that to a more in-depth discussion, later.
That’s four of the eight official posters on display, so I’ll leave the rest for Part Two!
]]>Two weeks ago, the Republic of Ireland voted for marriage equality. Much of Europe considers Ireland to be slow to adopt progressive legal structures, particularly regarding women and LGBT persons. The overwhelming vote for the 34th amendment to the Irish constitution put paid to that reputation. The Irish moved from political silence to civil partnerships to equal marriage in just a decade.
Here in Luxembourg, same-sex marriages became legal on the first of this year, by parliamentary legislation. This week, Luxembourgers are considering whether to extend another civil right: voting.
No, no, donâ€t misunderstand: LGBT people arenâ€t denied the right to vote in Luxembourg! The question before the polity is whether to extend voting rights beyond citizens to include long-term and demonstrably committed residents. This Sunday, June 7, Luxembourgâ€s citizens vote on that constitutional question.
The connection between citizenship and voting (or the lack thereof) was a big part of my graduate studies, so Iâ€m deeply interested in the result of next weekâ€s vote. Iâ€m paying special attention to the arguments for and against granting voting rights to non-citizens.
For many political thinkers, especially Americans, the very concepts of citizenship and voting are so intimately related that itâ€s hard to imagine arguments that disconnect the two. Iâ€m excited to be able to say, “Thereâ€s no need to imagine them. We have real ones right here in Luxembourg!”
There are actually three questions before the Luxembourgeois next week, including voting rights extended to 16-year-old citizens and term limits for ministers. Youth voting is another issue that fascinates me. I am a proponent for lowering the voting age in the US, mostly on the grounds that it would help get citizens into the “habit†of voting. Such radical measures are necessary, I believe, because both the legitimacy and the quality of American government are weakened by scandalously low voter turnout.
But that justification doesnâ€t apply here, since voting is mandatory and low voter turnout isnâ€t a real problem. I havenâ€t gotten a handle on the debate here — the substantive reasons offered for and against the idea — and Iâ€m looking forward to learning a lot more this week!
Creative-Commons-licensed image above courtesy of wikicommons user Bdx. By the way, “Jo” is “Yes” in Luxembourgish, and “Nee” is “No”.
]]>Welcome to 2015! While you would think January and February would be quiet months, Will and I have managed to both have pretty full schedules.
Since my job has many accounting elements, I was busy at work the first two weeks of the year. Even with being busy, we managed to take advance of a beautiful winter day on 4 January by going on a hike near the Mosel. It was exactly what we needed to help our winter spirits.
Our next big adventure was with our friends N and J for a weekend in Antwerp. Will and I have not been to Antwerp, so we were excited to see a new city with friends that had been there before. We had a lovely time exploring Antwerp, plus we added a side trip to Bruges. It was a great way to spend a weekend!
The next weekend was one of my favorite winter events – the Wine Fest! This year I added an extra layer of organization by doing a complete wine inventory prior to the fest. I was organized and disciplined in my purchases….for the most part! We are again well-stocked with our favorite wines.
The inventory, followed by the acquisitions!
Our first kennel guest arrived during the wine fest. Willow came to stay with us while her family went on Nordic ski adventure. While Willow was visiting, we got lots and lots of snow. Rather, we got lots of snow for Luxembourg! Willow and I had a good time exploring the snow on her walks.
The snow came in the late evening and it was lovely, even if my photos don’t do it justice.
The next morning it was even more amazing. Thank goodness Willow was visiting, otherwise I might have missed it.
Just a few days after Willow went home, Cooper the dog arrived for a stay. Cooper is a tiny dog, but he still manages to be even more demanding than any of the big dogs. Since he was with us over a weekend, he went with me on a trip to the farmerâ€s market. While he looked adorable in the basket, I donâ€t think he enjoyed it very much.
We also attended Buergbrennen, this time in Roodt-sur-Syre. It was a cold night with an impressive fire. Hopefully, our favorite blogger will write about it soon (thanks Rachel!).
Our last adventure in February was the British Ladies Club’s annual Quiz Night. We went with friends and had a terrific time, even with some of the challenging questions. While we didnâ€t place, we were happy with our performance.
We didnâ€t have nearly as many adventures and fun events in January and February, mainly because work was terribly busy. I ended up working nearly every weekend in February, with long hours during the normal work week. Thankfully, the project that was taking up all of my time was completed on 27 February, so hopefully March and April will be a bit more balanced between work and the rest of life.
Since the post was a bit light this time, I thought you might enjoy these photos from the phone…..
We had some really pretty days in January.
In mid-January, before work got crazy, we got out for a hike one afternoon.
There was a special display of these flowers in January. Will looked it up for me when I got home – they are seasonal flowers from the area around Nice. They were so pretty I had to get some for the house.
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Unfortunately I did not manage to write the detailed posts on various topics I promised in 2014. I have hopes to manage one or two, but my track record says to not get excited about those anytime soon. Weâ€ll see if I do better in 2015.
We started November with an unusual experience, as we biked with our friend Dave. While biking and friends is not unusual, this particular set of circumstances made it special. Dave lives in the Chicagoland area and he had traveled to Germany for a business trip. Will and I drove over to his hotel with three bikes and we enjoyed a long and cold ride around western Germany. It was fun to be with Dave as he experienced more European cycling, although the weather could have been a bit better.
The second weekend in November we attended our fifth Marine Corps Birthday Ball. We always have a great time at the ball and this year was no different. We were sad that several friends were unable to attend, due to the fact they had moved away from Luxembourg or were out of town.
In mid-November we departed Luxembourg for our annual trip back to the US. With the exception of one trip a couple years ago, our travel to the US has been mostly uneventful – which is exactly how you want it. However, our flight to Chicago this year had a very unusual event. We had to turn around for a medical emergency and make an unscheduled landing in Amsterdam. In order to land, the plane had to dump fuel. We circled over the North Sea for a bit to get rid of the fuel, then we landed at Schiphol. The plane taxied out to a remote spot in the airport and the emergency vehicles joined us there. From my seat, I had a great view of all the action. The passenger in medical distress was off the plane and into an ambulance in short order. However, the refueling took about 45 minutes. All in all, we landed only 2.5 hours later than scheduled. The crew did a great job of keeping us updated about what was happening and about how long it would take. We hope the passenger is doing much better now.
Our time in the US was a whirlwind but we had a great time. We had 1.5 weeks in Lake County, which allowed me some quality time at the office plus as many meet-ups with friends as we could manage. The second week was spent with family, first downstate with my family and then with Willâ€s family in Cook County. It was different this year, since Willâ€s parents moved from the St. Louis area to the Chicago area. Not just different, but much better!
We returned to Luxembourg at the beginning of December. We had barely gotten over our jet lag before we said goodbye to another friend who was leaving Luxembourg. It takes a special guy to throw his own going away party, but Tim did it in style. We wish him great luck and fortune in his next location.
The next day, we headed up to the Netherlands to meet our friend Jaime. She was flying in for a meeting and had a couple free days, which meant we had some time for fun in the NL. We showed her around Amsterdam on Saturday, ending the day with dinner at a Peruvian restaurant. The weather could not have been better for sightseeing.
On Sunday, the weather was not nearly as nice. Jaime decided that seeing the windmills of Kinderdijk would be more fun than anything else we could come up with. Kinderdijk holds a special place in our hearts, as it is where Willâ€s family lived prior to immigrating to the US. The weather wasnâ€t much better there, but we still had a great time. It was the first time I had been to Kinderdijk since 2004 so I enjoyed the visit nearly as much as Jaime!
One of many reasons I enjoy spending December in Luxembourg are the Christmas markets. I enjoy our market in Luxembourg for the food and convenience but I also enjoy traveling to other spots. The best part about the market to me is going with friends. One Friday night we met friends at the Lux market for dinner and visiting. We enjoyed catching up, while walking around with our gluhwein. Will even tried the one that they set on fire!
The next week colleagues from Chicago were in Luxembourg for meetings. After business was finished, Will escorted us to Trier, Germany for the markets there. Trier is bigger than Lux, but not as grand as Cologne, Aachen, or Strasbourg (FR). However, due to the travel schedule of my colleagues it was the best we could manage. It was the first visit to a Christmas market for both of my colleagues and they enjoyed themselves tremendously. I finally purchased my first Christmas pyramid after years of consideration. I love it!
Later in the month I went to Aachen, Germany with friends. In 2013, we went to Strasbourg together and had a fabulous time, so we decided to continue the tradition with another market trip. Will had caught a virus and was too sick to go, so it was three of us that ventured out. Aachen was a nice market, although I hear Cologne is even better. Weâ€ll have to confirm that next year! I also started my Christmas house collection with my first purchase in Aachen. Will wasnâ€t thrilled that I was gathering even more holiday paraphernalia, but he did like my choice. I canâ€t wait to involve him in the decisions next year.
Due to the timing of the public holidays, I was able to be out of the office the last two weeks of December. Those two weeks are some of my favorite time of the year, as we stay home and enjoy simple living in Luxembourg. We celebrated the Christmas holidays with our Luxembourg “family.†Rachel already posted about it with great photos, so Iâ€ll let her tell you about it. We also watched the entire series of Breaking Bad. We have thoughts about that, but Iâ€ll spare you them now. Finally, we attempted to get Will a new mobile phone with limited success. That will be special post once the situation is resolved.
We rang the in new year with fireworks provided by our neighbors. It was the first time we had celebrated new years in our own apartment (versus being out with friends), so it was fun to see the celebration from our balconies. Will tried hard to capture some of the fireworks and I think he did a good job!
Please enjoy these random photos from the phone to close out the year.
Our friends watered our plants while we were away. We try to make it easy on the plants and our friends.
I waited over 12 years to get these slippers. They are silly, but I love them.
During one of my visits to the apostille office, I noticed the passport group had some unique ornaments. I wanted to nip one, but stealing is wrong (sigh).
We finished 2014 with some proper snow. It was absolutely beautiful, especially after the sun rose.
First, let’s wrap up the Netherlands with a Christmas-specific store in Leiden. We saw just a little of Leiden and it’s now on my list of places to see again.
Back in Luxembourg, we enjoyed having a Christmas Market practically on the doorstep of Anita’s workplace. Who can pass up sugary treats and hot wine?
For the third year, there was another Christmas market in the Place de la Constitution (under the Gëlle Fra). Each year, they’ve changed the formula slightly — this year, there was slightly less room for standing around with drinks and a few more children’s rides. We were excited about the Ferris Wheel — but alas, the weather never aligned with our schedules. (Not pictured, the small markets in the Gare neighborhood.)
The Christmas market in Trier is a step up from Luxembourg and not far away, so we took some visitors there on a Monday afternoon. Although that’s hardly a prime time, Santa Claus still made an appearance. (In case you’re wondering, the Gift-Giving Guy in the Red Suit is considered a recent import from American culture. As far as we can tell, it’s generally considered a welcome addition to the season, although nobody wants to emulate the American extremes.)
Most larger Christmas markets sprawl across multiple squares. If you’re surprised by how small a city’s market is, particularly in Germany, ask a local — you might find that the best part isn’t even in the city center!
Trier is especially good for small shops selling genuinely high-quality crafts, like this brush shop. This year, we learned that the best hair for a shaving brush comes from the neck of the badger.
Back again to Luxembourg’s Christmas Market, where the central space is sheltered from the ever-present rain.
The shops in Luxembourg serve different desires than those in Trier, with less emphasis on craftsmanship.
Anita joined friends on a day-trip to Aachen’s Christmas Market, reputed to be one of the better ones in the region. Aachen is near the point where Belgium, Germany, and the Netherlands meet.
The Aachen Cathedral is the oldest in northern Europe, established by Charlemagne and the site of 42 monarchical coronations. It contains two magnificent shrines: one containing the bones of Charlemagne and the other a variety of relics (including Jesus’s diaper).
Anita said that the two-story-tall, inflatable gingerbread-man was nearly as impressive as the Cathedral itself. I wish I could have seen it for myself.
The Christmas Market in Luxembourg left town on Christmas Eve, leaving a quiet period before New Year’s Eve, or as we say in Europe, Saint Sylvester’s.
We didn’t attend any formal fireworks, but our neighbors provided quite a show, lighting some impressive rockets and roman candles in the middle of the streets.
I prefer for the decorations to stay up well into February, particularly in a place where we get very few hours of sunlight each day, and for months, the parks look like this:
The lights seem to help just a little bit with the gloom of January.
The trees in front of the cathedral are especially dazzling
This year’s innovation from the Ville is a skating rink in Place Guillaume (complete with hot wine and sausages). Not a bad way to stave off the winter blues…
]]>Luxembourg’s Christmas Market at Place d’Armes
Luxembourg: Will’s preferred stop for Gromperekichelcher
Luxembourg: Anita enjoys a luxringer from the same stand
Luxembourg: Variations on the glühwein mug
Luxembourg at home: Our ersatz Christmas tree stand…
… and look what Sinterklaas left beneath it! (He goes by “Kleeschen” here in Luxembourg but we’re sticking with the Dutch name.)
Amsterdam: We met an American friend in the Netherlands and got to see the city’s holiday lights. Here, the famous department store de Bijenkorf.
Amsterdam: The tree on de Dam, in front of the Royal Palace
Amsterdam: The Kalverstraat was lit from above, like most of the shopping streets in town
Amsterdam: Dealing with the long winter nights through wonderful decorations in the canals.
Amsterdam: Seasonal transportation
Amsterdam: Another lit shopping district, the 9 little streets of the canal district
Amsterdam: The Christmas Market
Amsterdam Christmas Market: We discovered it by chance on Rembrandtplein
Amsterdam Christmas Market
Amsterdam Christmas Market: It’s unclear whether a “Dutch Toffee Waffle” is a stroopwafel. We were too full from our gourmet Peruvian dinner to try one.
Amsterdam Christmas Market: Little Italy, just as one would expect
Amsterdam Christmas Market: The blue-lit, statuary representation of The Night Watch is a “unique” aspect of this Christmas market.
Amsterdam: One last look at the Damrak before we boarded our train back to Leiden.
We have photos from more markets to share with you before the end of the year, so check back soon!
]]>My future blog post list additions:
• Willâ€s trip to Toulouse, France
• Anitaâ€s trip to Delhi, India
• Our trip to Prague, Czech Republic
• Random Prime Minister spotting
The first week of September I was in Basel, Switzerland for a quick work trip. While most of my time was spent with my boss in meetings, we did manage to get out and walk around the city a bit. Basel is lovely but has a far more “working†vibe than many of the other spots in Switzerland.
Looking ahead at the calendar, we realized that the rest of September would likely have travel for both of us. We decided to make the first weekend a big Lux weekend. We started immediately on Friday by going to dinner at the fair. Schueberfouer was wrapping up and we still hadnâ€t had our big fish! Will and enjoyed our annual eating tradition and then walked around the grounds one last time for the season.
While I go to the farmerâ€s market nearly every Saturday, it is a rare treat when Will joins me. He offered to take a photo of me, so I decided to share it with you.
Our next adventure on Saturday was a bike ride around the west of the country. We didnâ€t quite make it to Belgium this time, but we came close. I also got “show my stripes†with my awesome Trek kit.
Our Saturday finished with the best event of the whole day. A close friend celebrated a special birthday and we were invited to the family party. We had a great time at the most Luxembourgish of gatherings Iâ€ve ever been to.
There was only one way to end the weekend and that was another bike ride. This time, we drove up into the north of the country to explore areas that we had not cycled through before. There was a wicked downhill at the end of the ride that nearly took us both out. We managed to not only survive but we canâ€t wait to do it again! This time, Will showed his stripes!
After a huge Lux weekend, life got back to normal. The second weekend in September Will was off to Toulouse, France for meetings and events. Heâ€ll tell you more about that at some point. I spent the weekend cycling with friends, meeting friends for drinks, and relaxing around the house. I donâ€t have any pictures of the relaxing, but I did get one of my new favorite drink!
On September 18, we celebrated Jens Voigt breaking the “hour record†in cycling. Will and I have had the pleasure of meeting Jens, which is another story entirely. We were excited to invite Rachel and her household over to watch the event, since her husband was one of the technical team and he played a big role in the success of the night. While Jens didnâ€t hold the record long (it has already been broken by another) it was great to watch him succeed one last time on the bike.
Then, it was time for me to depart to Delhi, India. In August I learned I might need to travel to Delhi, but the trip hadnâ€t been scheduled yet. When the trip was finally scheduled, we needed to be there nearly immediately so it meant leaving on Saturday morning. Iâ€ll cover Delhi more separately, but for now here are a few photos.
Back from Delhi, it was time for Will and me to enjoy more of Luxembourg. First up was Oktoberfest with our friends. While Luxembourgâ€s Oktoberfest is small compared to those in Germany, it is a tremendous amount of fun. We were there with four other great people and we had a blast.
The Fiesta Integrale, which we had participated in before in 2010, occurred on Sunday. Rachel did a bang-up job of documenting the day, so Iâ€ll just link to her. Thanks Rachel!
And then September was over. Thankfully, October looked like it would be a quieter month, as September exhausted us. During the first weekend, I enjoyed a Marche Gourmand. Again, Rachelâ€s blog post will cover for my laziness. It was a fun day all around and I want to try another one soon.
Will and I managed to pull ourselves away from work for a few days for a quick trip to Prague. As I mentioned, this deserves a post or two of its own. For now, enjoy some photos.
Apple season (and apple juice) is quite important in Lux. On the third Sunday of October we met Vikki and two other friends for a relaxing Sunday cycling adventure. Our friend selected the route and we headed out towards Gonderange. After we got started, I remembered that Sunday was Gonderangeâ€s Viz Fest (or Apple Juice Fest). Everybody in the group loved apple juice and everyone was excited to stop for a glass (or two!). Because this is Luxembourg, there were also sausages. However, I am sad to report that this was a crémant-free event. I couldnâ€t believe it, but the apple juice was so tasty I didnâ€t mind a bit.
[Editor’s note: the camera that took the group photo is currently on holiday. As soon as it returns, the photo will be added to the post.]
We also said “see you soon†to some of our friends we cycled with to the Viz fest. They are off to their next adventure halfway around the world and are very excited about the opportunity. Weâ€re sure weâ€ll be cycling with them again someday but weâ€ll miss them terribly in Luxembourg.
Finally, someone awfully special turned one year old. We had a great time at his lovely party.
Life continues to be busy around here, but we are happy to fill it with friends, fun, and lots of cycling!
July started off quietly. During the first weekend, I talked Will into a nice Sunday ride with our friend Vikki. We did an out and back towards Junglinster, where we tackled the infamous Bourglinster cobbled climb. This was the second time we have forced Vikki up this hill and everyone enjoyed it more the second time. It is always more fun to cycle with friends and we are lucky to have a great group in Lux who enjoys going out with us. On the way home, we stopped in the park to enjoy the temporary swings. Will looks fabulous in his cycling gear, doesnâ€t he?
As a change, we decided to take a week of holiday in July. We went to Portugal in 2008 and I wanted to go back for a second look. We departed on the 11th for three days in Lisbon, two days in Sintra, and two days in Porto. While we went to Lisbon and Sintra in 2008, Porto was a new stop for us. Both Will and I had a terrific time, although the heat was a bit much for us at different points. We kept our daily schedule very light, with plenty of time for walking around and relaxing.
The day after we arrived home, a local cycling organization had a special day of riding. They closed a beautiful road between Mamer and Mersch to cars, allowing cyclists to own the road. After a week of walking around Portugal, it felt great to get back on our bikes and see a different part of Luxembourg. The road that was closed is a beautiful stretch, but very hard to cycle when there is traffic so weâ€ve never been there before. Plus, since this was a proper Luxembourg event, there was crémant and sausages at the end. We were able to enjoy a snack before we headed home.
July had beautiful weather, so on the last weekend I was able to do a long ride with Amanda on Saturday, followed by another ride with Will on Sunday. I havenâ€t been able to do as many 100 km weekends as I had hoped when I planned my cycling summer, but I was able to accomplish it that weekend. Plus, I saw the cutest playground when Amanda and I were out. It was adorable!
And with that, July was over. Unfortunately, so was the perfect summer weather. August was not nearly as nice, as we had a lot more rain and then the cooler temperatures came through. It became more difficult to get out on our bikes, but we did our best.
In early August, it was time to trade cars as our lease was only for four years. The new car came with a hitch and a trailer bike rack. We love it. While the first time we put the trailer on was challenging, the subsequent times have been much easier. It is now easy for us to throw the trailer and our bikes on the back of the car and drive a bit away from town. This allows us to see some new sites and to cycle more easily with Rachel. In fact, one weekend I grabbed Amanda and we went to Rachelâ€s for a girls’ cycling day.
In the middle of the month we had to say “Until we meet again!” to some of our first Luxembourg friends. A great opportunity in a new country took them away from Luxembourg. They were the first out of our core group to leave Lux and we already miss them. The good news for us is their new country is also a place where we like to vacation…. I think they may be seeing us again sooner rather than later!
August was new glasses month. Both Will and I were in desperate need for new spectacles and we finally managed to drag ourselves to the shop to pick out frames. While it may not seem like much, new glasses are a treat for the vision impaired. We are both very pleased with our new glasses, even though not a single person has noticed that we made a change. Clearly, we kept the same look as our old frames.
Hana the dog came for two visits! In the three-plus years since we started watching her, Hana has grown from a frisky puppy to a loving and well-behaved dog. She was fun for both Will and I, especially since she doesnâ€t eat the patio plants anymore!
In between Hanaâ€s visits, Cooper arrived to stay. Cooper is new to our “kennel†and he is by far the tiniest dog we have ever watched. It was sweet to see him “get set†to jump up on the couch with us, or hear his tiny little paws on the floor. We hope you had a good time, Cooper!
Schueberfouer is here! We already went once with friends and we’ll surely be back a few more times before it is over.
And then suddenly, August was over. I still wish there were more hours in the day for cycling, baking, organizing, and reading but Iâ€m happy to have the time that I have with Will and with our friends.
Some photos from the phone
Pies have been on the menu this summer. Now, if I could find a source of sour-cherries for the ultimate test…
Saturday trips to the Market are my favorite. It is even better when friends have time to join!
There were a few events that happened in May/June that deserve their own posts. My hope is to write them during July. The events that will get their own post:
Our first major activity in May was our trip to Oudenaarde, which Will told you about in detail. I was riding as much as possible before the trip, taking some long rides with our friends and some with Will. Generally, if it isnâ€t raining on the weekend Iâ€m on the bike.
We attended the Memorial Day ceremony at the American Military Cemetery, which was additionally touching as they celebrated 70 years since the landings in Normandy. For the first time since we have been attending, Grand Duke Henri came to present his wreath. The weather was grey and cold during the ceremony, which seemed appropriate as we honored the WWII veterans and fallen soldiers.
Luxembourgâ€s marathon is unusual as the start is at 7 p.m., versus the early morning. Itâ€s known as the Night Marathon and the route usually goes right by our apartment, making it an excellent spot to cheer on the runners. While almost everyone was out of town, we did have a small group of friends over to enjoy a bit of spirit and fun. Even more fun was the fact that we had two canine friends there too!
Willâ€s cousin and his wife have been living in Germany for the last three years. Their stay in Germany was coming to a close, so they took time out of their busy lives to stop in Luxembourg to see us one more time before they left. Both Will and I greatly appreciated the extra effort to say goodbye, but for Will their trip was even more special. Carolyn and Mike were the proud owner of a fabulous espresso machine that they gifted to Will. The espresso machine was 220/60, so it couldnâ€t follow them home to America.
It has been a long time since I have seen Will that happy and excited about a new toy. All three of them swarmed around, getting it set up and running. While weâ€ll miss having Carolyn and Mike a short car ride away, weâ€ll think of them every day as some excellent coffee is brewed!
The BBB&B kennel opened itâ€s doors for another guest. Dexter, a sweet older dog, came to stay with us for a week. He got quite a treat, as he was there when Carolyn and Mike visited. Dexter loves people, so two extra people in the apartment made him very happy. Also, he got to be a spectator at the Tour of Luxembourg on the day that Will and I followed the race. He found the whole experience quite exciting.
World Cup fever hit our house, like many in the Grand Region. We watched the group play and managed to see most of the Round of 16. I am proud of how well the US did, even though they have some work to go. When I drafted this post, all of our neighbors (Germany, France, and Belgium) are still alive. Of course, our family is supporting the Netherlands for the rest of the Cup, so Hup Holland!
To close the month, please enjoy a few photos from the phone!
Someone got a hammock…..
You never know what you will find on your evening cycle. This time, we found cows on our path!
The neighborâ€s roses were spectacular. My walk to work is so pretty.
We were inspired by one of our recent visitors to have a small wine tasting. Of course, Will liked one more and I liked the other….
I have been eating a lot of boiled eggs recently, but I was frustrated about how difficult it was to peel them cleanly. Then I discovered you can buy boiled eggs at the grocery store. Not only do they peel easily, but they also donâ€t have to be refrigerated. Plus, they come in fun colors! These were the eggs that were for sale around National Day, so they are dyed to match the flag of Luxembourg.
]]>In his comment on Part 2, Dave wrote, “I canâ€t imagine what your arms feel like after all those cobbles!” On the cobbled climbs, actually, it was all about the legs and the lungs.
When Anita and I talked about our rides in January, she talked exclusively about needing strong legs and endurance. At some point, it occurred to me to ask, “You never did any flat cobbled sections did you?” Anita had no idea what I was talking about. So as Rachel planned our Return to Flanders, I insisted that Anita had to experience something very special from my ride in January.
The Mariaborrestraat is almost entirely flat. On a map, it looks like an indirect way to get from the Koppenberg to the Taaienberg.
The Mariaborrestraat is also a cobbled road in very bad condition. After my experience in January, I wanted Anita to see what cobbles could be like, at speed. Here’s the beginning of the stretch; the sign reads “Pavement in poor condition” which is a bit of an understatement. (In Luxembourgish, the equivalent for “slechte” also means “drunk” — make of that what you will.)
Here’s what Anita wrote to me about it:
This is the section that you REALLY wanted Rachel and me to do, and now I know why. Oh. My. God. It was painful and terrifying and amazing all at the same time. You must have benefited some from your mountain biking experience. I just was scared out of my mind all the way through the 2.4 kilometers. At any point, I could have easily gone down. I was just bouncing all over the place.
Excellent… Mission accomplished.
I gave Anita some “mountain biking” advice before we hit the straat: sit up and out of the saddle and use your legs as shock absorbers. I’ll admit now that I didn’t give very good advice. The rear end of a road bike is so light that getting out of the saddle allows it to bounce all over the place. I shifted my weight forward, so that I didn’t care that the rear wheel had almost no traction. Anita chose to sit back down, regain control… and suffer the consequences.
The Ronde museum portrays it in an image:
Yep, that’s about it.
There are two amazing things about cobbles on the flat. One is that there’s a magical speed for any stretch of cobbles, where you hit each one just right and float across the tops. That speed is always changing, so you feel it once or twice for a few seconds. That feeling compels you to vary your speed constantly, hoping to find that place again.
The second is a kind of corollary: there is no speed, no path, and no grip that will keep your arms from feeling like you’re being electrocuted. If you hold the handlebars lightly, they slam into your palms and you risk losing control. If you squeeze the handlebars, you will loose sensation almost immediately from your fingertips to your shoulders.
As an occasionally haphazard wannabe electrician, I know what it feels like to grab a live wire. I’ve never felt anything as much like it as riding fast over cobbles while clenching road-bike handlebars.
For fans of pro cycling, the ultimate and legendary course for flat cobbles is the Paris-Roubaix. Everyone says that the cobbles there are worse in every way. I must have a little bit of Anita’s masochistic streak, because I’m curious and wouldn’t mind checking it out.
The best part of the Mariaborrestraat left all three of us gasping for breath. We were struggling up a little incline all together, and an elderly woman dressed in casual clothes and easily pedaling her heavy cruiser-style bike zoomed past us without warning. We shared an instant reaction: What the heck!?!! We knew that people living around here would be tougher than most, but that was preposterous! Within a few seconds, she turned off the road; then we saw the small battery pack between her legs. And started laughing.
The next climb arrived all too soon: the Taaienberg. I don’t have a good photo of the climb itself, but it’s a shaded climb that seems like a slightly easier version of the Koppenberg. It’s a bit longer, but it is also a bit less steep overall and at its maximum grade.
I guess I’ll need to go back again soon to document the Taaienberg properly!
Anita and I simply were not ready for this climb. I don’t know whether more time to recover would have made any difference. The overhanging trees, the shade, and the runoff from the soil embankment meant that the cobbles were still slick, even at midday. And yet that’s no excuse…
…because there is a concrete verge along the entire length. (Watch the cyclists move to the right in this video.) Despite that advantage, Anita and I both came to a shuddering halt less than half-way up.
After walking for a few dozen meters, Anita made a compelling case that the concrete gutter would make it possible to get on the bike again. We strained our legs again and slowly caught up with Rachel, who was waiting on the open, flat section at the top of the hill. She was ready to go, but I demanded a nice long break in the sun. It was just cool enough that we didn’t look for shade. I took some photos, of course.
After the Taaienberg, we had a respite from cobbles. We were high atop a ridge, cycling alongside woods on high-quality surfaces. It looked and felt a lot like cycling in Luxembourg.
We knew we’d made it through all but one of the named climbs. We relaxed, riding three abreast and chatting. There was no need for a Plan B anymore, and Anita and I could stop wondering whether we’d make it all the way through our planned 60 kilometer ride.
The last climb, the Kruisberg, passed through the large town of Ronse. It was disorienting to descend straight into traffic and storefronts, and we wound up climbing halfway up the non-cobbled climb on a parallel street.
Apparently, that easy prelude was a good warmup for the real thing. All three of us pedaled up the climb without much trouble. The cobbles were slightly smoother, and the maximum grade was 9%. As Anita said, “The Kruisberg showed me that anything above a max incline of 11% on cobbles is a bit out of my grasp right now.”
After the Kruisberg, we continued to grind uphill in fast traffic until we were atop the ridge again. Then it was a smooth, fast descent to the bike-path along the Scheldt. There, we found that Flanders had one more challenge for us: a strong headwind for the last 10 kilometers home. Anita and I were shameless about drafting behind Rachel. Even with that advantage, we were getting slower and slower. Then I discovered that two lead cyclists, closely side-by-side, almost negated the wind. Anita and I took turns sheltering each other while Rachel generously remained the stalwart windbreak.
When we saw the lift bridge of Oudenaarde, we could finally celebrate our accomplishment. What better way than an adult beverage on a sunny terrace?
An adult beverage and a tiny friend, that’s what!
We stayed in Oudenaarde overnight, enjoying take-out pizza from the very good Italian restaurant (Arcobaleno) next door.
Anita and I had planned to visit World War One sites like Ypres the next day. We stayed in Oudenaarde due to the combination of a beautifully sunny morning, sore legs, and the desire to relish our ride for a few hours more.
You won’t be surprised to hear that our Flemish ride became the touchstone for the rest of this year. Every climb in Luxembourg is compared to the Oude Kwaremont or the Kruisberg. It is now imperative that we look up the percentage grade of the climbs around our home. We seek out the cobbles in Bourglinster and the Ville, and then scoff at how smooth and easy they are.
I’m afraid we are becoming insufferable. Perhaps we need another dose of humility… and I know where to find it…
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